Salt...kosher, iodized and sea salts. What's what.

A week or so ago a friend asked if I could write a post on spice parings. While I have every intention of doing that
(Jo, I didn't forget about you), I couldn't help but think it would be a good idea to take a step back and talk about
salt. Plain and simple salt.
Salt is a seasoning ingredient that everyone is comfortable using in some quantity, so it is often overlooked
as having any significant impact on the end result of any recipe. Salt is salt, right? Well, surprisingly, no.
Not so much. The type of salt that you use can impact the end result of your recipe as significantly as the
quantity of salt. If you've ever wondered why Aunt Peg's pot roast is always better than yours, it may just be
that Aunt Peg knows a thing or two about the kind of salt to use when roasting.
Salt is mostly sodium chloride, so ingredient variability is minimal. With the exception of iodized salt,
most other salts contain the same primary ingredient with trace minerals. Iodized salt is a horse of a different color.
Some producers add iodine to salt because at one time, people were deficient in this element. When the glaciers melted, iodine
ran into the sea. However, iodine isn't particularly flavorful and dextrose is often added to mask the taste of iodized salt,
which tends to give it a chemical taste. So, for purposes of cooking, baking and seasoning, I don't recommend iodized salt.
That brings us to texture, the subtle difference between salts that can make or break a recipe.
When cooking, use kosher salt. The grainy texture makes it easier to see and feel how much salt you are adding and
you will have less of a tendency to oversalt. Kosher salt is wonderful when roasting meat. The exact same recipe for roasted chicken
or beef made with kosher salt will improve by an order of magnitude. (well, maybe not quite that much, but you will notice
a difference).
I also use kosher salt when making pasta. Add 1 Tablespoon of salt per 4 quarts of water (by the way, this is the amount of salt and
water used to boil 1 pound of pasta).
When baking, use a finer salt (like Morton's regular salt without iodine). Success in baking is largely depended upon
precise measurements (which is often why people can either cook well, or bake well, but not both). As a side note, if
you ever want to get some insight into a someone's personality...ask them if they prefer to cook or bake. Your bakers
are more detail oriented, cooks are big picture people.
You can bake with kosher salt, just remember
to change the quantity a bit and to crumble it to ensure even flavor distribution in delicate batters. In general,
1/4 cup of table salt is equal to 1/4 cup plus 2 Tablespoons of kosher salt because of the difference in granule size.
That brings us to seasoning...the last little sprinkle after everything is cooked and ready to serve.
If you have a delicate palate and can taste really subtle differences in flavor, use natural sea salts at the dinner
table. They are more expensive than either kosher or table salt, but do offer a little more flavor and crunch (although
very subtle) and come in a variety of colors (which can make a nice conversation piece).
Or, if you have a small amount of fresh herbs or citrus zest laying around, make your own variety of salt with a little added flavor.
To make citrus salt, mix 2 teaspoons of freshly grated lemon, lime, or orange zest with ½ cup of kosher salt.
For herb salt, mix 1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary, thyme, or mint leaves with ½ cup of kosher salt.
Transfer the salt to an airtight container and store at room temperature for up to three weeks.

Tips
Friday, July 31, 2009 7:00:26 AM (Central Daylight Time, UTC-05:00)
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